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FAQ

Bars and Compression:

How to measure bar height and width?

Scooter bar width and height is measured universally between any established scooter stores and brands. The “Width” refers to the distance between the outside of the crossbar from left to right. This does not count the bar ends, so keep the tape measure inside those.
            There is two different situations to measure the bar height. First is with an SCS clamp. SCS stands for Standard Compression System, and works differently than a normal clamp. The bottom two bolts clamp the forks, and the top two bolts clamp the bars. The bars sit on a step at the center of the clamp. So a 3” SCS will add 1.5” to the bars, and a 4” SCS will add 2” to the bars. So to achieve a total height of 24” with a 3” SCS, you would ask for 22.5” with no slit(we will touch up on the “slit vs no slit” further down the page). To achieve a total height of 24” with a 4” SCS, ask for 22” with no slit. The SCS will lift the bars to give you the total height.
            Measuring bars with threaded forks, IHC, HIC, ICS, ICS10, Mini HIC, and Pytel Compression is much easier. You will measure from the very top of your cross bar, to the bottom of your clamp. These compressions do not add height to the bars, so to achieve 24” tall, just order 24” with a slit.
            Now some bars like the infamous RAD Bars and other Y shaped bars are lower at the steer tube than where the grips sit. The easiest way to get an accurate measurement is to set the bars upside down on a flat surface, then measure the height.

Do I need a slit in my bars?

            Let’s first establish what a “slit” is. A slit is a vertical cut in the bottom of the bars that allows the bars to squeeze and pinch the forks when the clamp is tightened. If you have IHC, HIC, threaded forks, ICS, ICS10, Mini HIC, or Pytel Compression your scooter needs a slit. If it has a slit now, and you aren’t adding an SCS clamp, order the bars with a slit.
            Since SCS Clamps grab the bars and the forks separate, the bars do not need to pinch. A SCS clamp is the only time you will not need a slit, so order “no slit”.

How high should my bars be if I’m _” tall?

There is no set bar height for how tall you are. Bar height is a preference and is diverse among all the different riding styles. Most kids find it comfortable to be just below their waste. When standing on the deck, let your arms relax downward, usually where your hands are is a good starting point to work with. Just in case we have some recommendations below for different heights. But please remember bar height is a preference, and this is just a ball park height for that size. We tend to upsize the smaller kids on bars since they grow pretty quick, which is why you will notice as the riders height gets smaller on the list, the bar height shrinks less drastically.

6’2” ~ 28” tall
6’ ~ 26” tall
5’10” ~ 25” tall
5’8” ~ 24” tall
5’6” ~ 23” tall
5’4” ~ 22” tall
5’2” ~ 21” tall
5” ~ 21” tall
4’10” ~ 20” tall
4’8” ~ 20” tall
4’6” ~ 19” tall
4’4” ~ 18” tall

Do I need HIC or Standard bars for my compression system? Do I need a slit?

This is a question we get quite often and it tends to confuse some customers. So let’s start with HIC Oversized bars. HIC bars are always steel, never aluminum (I’ll touch up on that in a second). HIC bars use an outside diameter of 1.375” (1 3/8”, or 34.9mm), they have an inside diameter of 1.25” (1 1/4”, or 31.75mm) and a tubing wall thickness of .058” (just under 1/16”, or 1.47mm). HIC bars are only used with HIC compression or an SCS clamp. HIC means the bars slip over compression shim on top of the forks with a 1.25” outside diameter, you must run a slit in the bars. They will also work on any oversized SCS with an inside diameter of 1.375”, as always with SCS there is no slit.
            Next up we have Standard sizes bars. Standard bars are always steel, never aluminum. Standard scooter bars us an outside diameter of 1.25” (1 1/4”, or 31.75mm), an inside diameter of 1.125” (1 1/8”, or 28.575mm) and a tubing wall thickness of .058” (just under 1/16”, or 1.47mm). Standard scooter bars can be used with ICS, ICS10, IHC, Mini HIC, Pytel Compression, Threaded Forks and any SCS clamp. ICS, ICS10, Threaded Forks and Pytel Compression all use a slit, and the bar will slip over the 1.125” outside diameter fork tube. IHC and Mini HIC also use a slit, and the bars slip over the compression shim with a 1.125” outside diameter. SCS never uses a slit, and the bars will fit inside the 1.25” inside diameter (1.375” with a shim works as well) of the clamp.
            Last we have aluminum bars. Since aluminum is weaker than steel, they double up the tubing wall thickness. Aluminum scooter bars use an outside diameter of 1.375” (1 3/8”, or 34.9mm), they have an inside diameter of 1.125” (1 1/8”, or 28.575mm) and a wall thickness of .125” (1/8”, or 3.175mm). Aluminum scooter bars will work with ICS, ICS10, IHC, Mini HIC, Threaded Forks, and SCS. ICS, ICS10, Threaded Forks and Pytel Compression all use a slit, and the bar will slip over the 1.125” outside diameter fork tube. IHC and Mini HIC also use a slit, and the bars slip over the compression shim with a 1.125” outside diameter. SCS never uses a slit, and will only work on oversized SCS clamps with an inside diameter of 1.375”.

What is backsweep and do I need it?

            Backsweep is when both the ride and left side of the bars kick back towards the rider, usually just 3-7º per side. Why do some bars come with it? Well if you can imagine putting your hands out like you are grabbing bars, as you pretend to ride a wider bar your wrist naturally start to turn back, since they are pivoting around your shoulders. With smaller widths, <20”, backsweep is not needed and not usually noticed. With larger widths, >24”, backsweep is noticed and usually takes a little strain off the wrist. As always, it is preference and totally up to you. Most bars come with no backsweep.

Decks and Headsets:

What is the difference between Standard and Integrated decks?

            I’m sure by now you have noticed a difference in decks, some with built in headset cups (integrated) and some with pressed in cups (standard). Which is better? Well as technology improved in the BMX world and made integrated the norm, Scooters are doing the same thing. In reality integrated decks are just much easier to work with. To swap a deck you no longer need to hammer out the old cups then press new ones in like you would with a standard deck. All integrated bearings and the machined cups are made to the same specs, so just lift your bearings out of the old deck, clean them off, then place them in the new deck, you’re done!
            So is one really better than the other? Well it’s hard to say a real answer, as they both get the job done. Integrated is much easier and much more compatible, so if the budget allows get an integrated deck. That being said there is nothing wrong with a standard deck. Get a nice sealed headset and it will ride just as good. Standard decks are usually cheaper since there is lower machining cost. However, headsets usually cost more since they have to now machine bearing cups.

Will my standard headset work with an integrated deck?

            Unfortunately.. no. Integrated headsets use a special bearing size, that is not normally found in standard headsets. While your sealed standard headset bearing may “sorta” fit in your new integrated deck, it is not recommended to run it that way. You may notice some play or slack in the headset, and this can damage the bearing races in your deck. If the manufacturer does not say “bearings also work with integrated decks”, don’t try it!

What size deck should I ride?

Well just like bar size, deck size is all preference. It is usually dictated by a combination of style and height, but there is no black and white answer to the topic. I hate to put a label on different types of riding, to me it’s just scootering, but for the sake of this article I’ll say Park and Street riding.
            Park style riders usually ride a shorter deck, as they tend to whip around better. The average length is between 19.5”-20.5”. Width is all preference, but usually is never smaller than 4.25” and no larger than 4.75”. I’m not saying you cant do flipty do’s with a 5x22” deck, it’s just uncommon. I’m just providing a starting ground for you to research and find the best deck for you.
            Street style riders tend to ride a longer deck to provide more balance and stability when landing down big stair sets or on rough terrain. The average length is from 20.5”-22” with widths up to 5”.
            If you are looking for something comfortable to cruise all terrains, pick something in the middle. This will give you a nice balance of stability and trickability. Usually something from 20”-21” long is great for all around riding.
            Keep in mind that deck length and bar height need to be proportional to keep a balanced ride. Putting 22” tall bars on a 22” long deck will not put enough weight in the front for it to ride properly. A good ballpark ratio to figure out deck to bar size is 1:1.25, respectively. So for every inch of deck, you will have 1.25” of bars. It’s not perfect, but it will get you pretty close.

Wheels and Bearings:

What size wheels should I ride?

            Scooter wheels come in a variety of sizes including 100mm, 110mm, 120mm and some very uncommon sizes such as 115mm and 125mm. For the sake of this article we will focus on the common sizes. Straight out of the box, scooters will either come with 100mm, 110mm or 120mm wheels. On cheaper models you will find that they usually come with 100s, but can fit up to a 110 or 120mm wheel. When the time comes to replace your wheels, it is recommended to ride a 110mm or 120mm wheel. They offer improvements in speed and grip, due to a larger contact area. You will find the most variety in brands when looking for 110mm wheels, so most kids choose those. If you can, always go bigger than 100mm!

If I order wheels and bearings do you install them?

            The answer is yes. When bearings and wheels are ordered together online, we will always install them for you free of charge. It is much easier for both parties if we install them using our arbor press. Some wheels such as River Wheels come with bearings, so when other bearings are ordered as well, we leave the stock bearings in the wheels.

Are all scooter wheels and bearings compatible?

            All scooter wheels come with a standard bearing size that is shared across all brands and all sizes. Any scooter or skateboard bearing will fit right into your wheel. Now some people question that since some wheels fit tighter than others, but the bearings are supposed to be press fit tightly into the metal cores to prevent them from falling out or making noise.

Miscellaneous Assembly Questions:

Do we install parts?

            Of course! We’ve been doing it since 2006 and are the most experienced at it. If you want your parts ordered online assembled before shipping, just ask us in the notes. We would be glad to help you out free of charge. You won’t find service like that anywhere else on the internet, some stores charge up to $12 just to cut bars. If you want grip tape, bearings, grips, headsets, wheels, brakes clamps or anything else installed don’t hesitate to ask.

Can we dial your scooter?

            Yes we can. Now it’s usually a lot simpler than you think and very easy to do at home. So before making the trip all the way down to one of our stores just to watch us tighten one bolt, here is a few common areas to check for play.
            The most common reason your scooter is making noise is one of the wheels is loose. Tap your wheel from side to side, if it makes noise tighten the axle. Sometimes it helps to add a washer to your axle to allow it more room to tighten. Now if there is still play in your wheels, you may need new bearings.
            Next check the brake. If you can hear a noise echoing through your deck, it’s probably the brake. Tighten all the bolts that hold it in place. They are small bolts so don’t tighten too hard, you can strip it.
            If your bars can rock back and forth, it’s your compression. We have a variety of how to videos on every compression system so I’ll just do a quick rundown on the common ones. For HIC, IHC, and Mini HIC just loosen your clamp, pull your bars off and tighten the compression bolt on top of the shim. For SCS, loosen all the bolts in the SCS, remove your clamp and tighten the bolt on top of the compression cap. For ICS and ICS10 loosen your clamp, remove your front wheel, apply downward pressure on the bars till the play goes away and tighten the compression bolt that’s above the front wheel.

Shipping:

How long does my order take to ship?

            We are here 7 days a week to process and ship your order. Most orders ship within 1-2 business days from our warehouse here in southern California. Some items on our website will drop ship from the manufacturer, when that is the case we make sure to always list it in the product description. Drop shipped orders usually take 2-4 business days to ship. Once shipped, it depends on the shipping option you chose as to how long it will take. That can be another 1-7 days also depending on location. The closer to southern California, the faster you will receive your order even with the cheaper options.

What shipping companies do we use?

            Orders from us ship with UPS or USPS. We find that they provide a great balance of shipping rates and delivery time. Some drop shipped orders may arrive via Fedex.

 

 

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